What did you do to your NB today? [Archive] - Page 40 (2024)

shoult

26th July 2012, 11:01

What tranny fluid and diff fluid are you guys using ? I amn thinking of changing mine this weekend. Also does the nb have turret fluid like the na?

Redline in the diff. I have Redline in the tranny of the NA and like it MUCH better than the much more expensive Ford stuff I put in my NB.

LoanShark

26th July 2012, 15:21

Thanks for that info

I used to love the Subaru svx. Gorgeous car, but nasty tranny and wheel bearing issues. Then again I love subarus, having a 4 door 800cc Justy, had a 81 Dl wagon, and 91 gl10 that had a digi dash better than my s2000

Evo orange is great color. The tan top with that color is interesting.

bertram.af

26th July 2012, 18:47

had some rust on my rear wheelwells that i got sanded, and repainted. Im a happy man right now :)

Before and After pics:

Briarpatch

27th July 2012, 11:41

usshelena725

27th July 2012, 11:58

I had some wind noise where the top and windshield come together. I stuffed in some of the backer rod left over from the hood/bulkhead seal fix so I shoved it in the groove. Voila! much quieter with the top up and you can't see it. I left the backer rod short enough so water could drain down both sides. Is this a great forum or what?! THANKS - Stan

Can you explain this fix in more detail, I also have some excess wind noise in that area.

Washed mine today, then ran up near the blue ridge parkway with the top down for a couple of hours.

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2

boomercarguy

27th July 2012, 14:41

UTM, never thought of push starting it. I'm not sure there was anyone around strong enough to really get it moving. It usually takes a couple of cranks to start it.

I used to have to push start my MG all the time due to a bad starter (British quality). I usually used second gear because first was so low it acted like a brake.

kallsop

27th July 2012, 22:15

Christmas in July! Got mine back from the paint shop today and it looks nice!:thumbs:
Had one problem, they steam cleaned the engine bay and flooded two of the plug wells and created a misfire, but I had already purchesd Cobalt wires and new plugs, just had to reset the CEL and it runs fine.

Here are the before:
http://s131.photobucket.com/albums/p309/kallsop2/Miata%20B4/

Here are the pics of after:

http://s131.photobucket.com/albums/p309/kallsop2/After/

shoult

27th July 2012, 22:23

Drove it like i stole it from Nashville to Maryville TN today. Now I'm only about 90 minutes from Fontana Village and MATG XVI. Dragon, you shall be mine once again!

Who else is going to be there?

Briarpatch

27th July 2012, 23:17

gtechie

27th July 2012, 23:46

I drained my Redline MTL and switched it out for some MT-85. Ahh... perfect! Maybe the old stuff was just old and dirty...

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus... sorry for typos!

LoanShark

28th July 2012, 00:57

I drained my Redline MTL and switched it out for some MT-85. Ahh... perfect! Maybe the old stuff was just old and dirty...

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus... sorry for typos!

Is that the new recommendation around here ?

Magellan09

28th July 2012, 04:10

GTScott

28th July 2012, 08:04

JoeTheZoe

28th July 2012, 09:13

Is that the new recommendation around here ?

Several people have run the Ford Motorcraft stuff with much success. I just put it in mine about 2 months ago and loved it, but I just swapped my diff and changed the bushings out for MazdaComp diff mounts....so now I REALLY LOVE my transmission haha :jump:

usshelena725

28th July 2012, 09:57

I *finally* got my Katzkin leather in the car. I went from black cloth to tan leather. It looks pretty good but I think I may need some more tan accents to make it flow better. I did put in tan shift and e-brake boots.

Can we see some photos? Wuld love to see how it looks and also some detailed photos of the leather quality and style!

Motocrossx23

28th July 2012, 11:24

DIY cold side intake...

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/409634_352142314864920_1384515092_n.jpg

Drvalu

28th July 2012, 11:27

bigdave

28th July 2012, 11:30

The heat this summer is cooking my interior so I needed to add one of these before I have a problem.

great inventions, huh? I use mine all the time in the Texas sun.

J3cubrc

28th July 2012, 11:49

great inventions, huh? I use mine all the time in the Texas sun.

My son is taking his car to Miami for school in two weeks. His interior is really nice and I'd like to protect it. Where did you get that and if you don't mind how much$ ? Thanks.

bigdave

28th July 2012, 11:53

My son is taking his car to Miami for school in two weeks. His interior is really nice and I'd like to protect it. Where did you get that and if you don't mind how much$ ? Thanks.

I got mine from a club member - BUT, Moss Miata has them... $40 - $45

jwett9

28th July 2012, 12:33

Did redline 75w90 in the diff, redline mt-90 in the transmission, and a racing beat dual tip muffler last weekend. On Thursday I did stoptech front pads with centric rotors.

Have plans for oil change and shift boots soon.

nate0123

28th July 2012, 12:38

Drvalu

28th July 2012, 15:56

My son is taking his car to Miami for school in two weeks. His interior is really nice and I'd like to protect it. Where did you get that and if you don't mind how much$ ? Thanks.

Yes, I got mine from Moss. They have a 15% off sale now through 8/8 so I paid about $37 plus shipping. Nice product and well made.

Drvalu

28th July 2012, 16:03

What are your impressions of the dual tip racing beat? Is it the twin tip on one side or one per side?

I have the twin tip Racing Beat on my 2002 and am well pleased. No drone at highway speeds but adds a nice rasp over the entire rev range. Dual tips on one side - need to cut out a piece of the rear apron and touch up the paint - see pic below.

777

28th July 2012, 16:36

What tranny fluid and diff fluid are you guys using ? I amn thinking of changing mine this weekend. Also does the nb have turret fluid like the na?

Did tons of research. After which I made this chart for myself. This seemed to be the popular consensus around here & it worked fine for me.

Transmission:Motorcraft Full Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid (2-3 qts)
part no. XT-M5-QS
Transmission drain torque: 29-43 ft-lbs
Transmission fill torque:18-29 ft-lbs
Crush washer part no. 9956-41-800 (get 1)
Turret90cc
5/8 or crescent wrench for trans fill
Some Anti-Seize on tran fill bolt

Differential:Redline 75w-90 Gear Oil (not NS) GL-5 (1qt)

Differential drain torque: 29-40 ft-lbs
Differential fill torque: 29-40 ft-lbs
Crush washer part no. 9956-41-800 (get 2)

Engine Oil:Crush washer part no. 9956-41-400 (get 1)

777

28th July 2012, 16:38

DIY cold side intake...

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/409634_352142314864920_1384515092_n.jpg

Please tell us what you think about this & also what parts did you use?

CheapWhine

28th July 2012, 18:23

I have the twin tip Racing Beat on my 2002 and am well pleased. No drone at highway speeds but adds a nice rasp over the entire rev range. Dual tips on one side - need to cut out a piece of the rear apron and touch up the paint - see pic below.

I don't care for the duals.. the twin-tip (what you have) is a better look. What is the OD of the tips?

Drvalu

28th July 2012, 18:48

I don't care for the duals.. the twin-tip is a better look. What is the OD of the tips?

OD is 2 3/8" stainless tubing with 3" chrome tips.

74bubba

28th July 2012, 18:59

Motocrossx23

28th July 2012, 19:09

Please tell us what you think about this & also what parts did you use?

I like it much better than stock, that's for sure. I know I'm losing high end torque but it is more responsive so I'm okay with the trade off. I need to get a better filter though, as this one is too small for my liking. K&N makes a nice filter that'll fit, just need to order it.

As far as parts, Autozone. Two couplers, a 90 degree hard pipe and you need to cut apart the tape so that the MAF and ATS can be carried over.

All in all, I'm happy with it.

Panchira!

28th July 2012, 19:47

Got my tires mounted to the rims and road force balanced. All under 5 pounds and one wheel actually didn't need weights! Also made my my appointment for my alignment at west end. Wish they were closer and were open weekends. Oh well :)

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l13/SW203SGTE/62e7d178.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l13/SW203SGTE/d6c6cbb8.jpg

Here is what a 205/50/15 looks like on a konig flatout 8" wide rim

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l13/SW203SGTE/df711d8f.jpg

CheapWhine

28th July 2012, 20:08

OD is 2 3/8" stainless tubing with 3" chrome tips.

Hmm.. same size as the Roadster Sport 3. As much as I like the sound and weight of the RS3, I wish the tip was slightly smaller in diameter. Is the RB logo removable? Though subtle.. I could do without the engraved 'Roadster Sport' on my tip.
Anywho, good call on the twin-tip.. I think dual tips belong only on cars with two banks of cylinders.

Drvalu

28th July 2012, 20:17

Hmm.. same size as the Roadster Sport 3. As much as I like the sound and weight of the RS3, I wish the tip was slightly smaller in diameter. Is the RB logo removable? Though subtle.. I could do without the engraved 'Roadster Sport' on my tip.
Anywho, good call on the twin-tip.. I think dual tips belong only on cars with two banks of cylinders.

The RB logo is etched into the finish - no way to remove. Not that noticeable unless you bend down to look at it.

JPS

28th July 2012, 20:18

Jesse1999

29th July 2012, 09:00

Got my tires mounted to the rims and road force balanced. All under 5 pounds and one wheel actually didn't need weights! [/IMG]

WOW, under five POUNDS of balancing weights! :rofl:

:D

sidecarl

29th July 2012, 11:55

LoanShark

29th July 2012, 12:42

Forgive the crappy phone pictures. Did a full clay bar, paint cleaner, polish, and 2 layers of wax.

First car ever where clay bar was almost not needed, the paint was that smooth already. I guess that was the present from the previous owner (original owner, garaged and covered all its life), paint condition.

http://www.mazda-speed.com/albums/RYAN/IMAG0953.jpg

http://www.mazda-speed.com/albums/RYAN/IMAG0963.jpg

LoanShark

29th July 2012, 12:44

Did tons of research. After which I made this chart for myself. This seemed to be the popular consensus around here & it worked fine for me.

Transmission:Motorcraft Full Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid (2-3 qts)
part no. XT-M5-QS
Transmission drain torque: 29-43 ft-lbs
Transmission fill torque:18-29 ft-lbs
Crush washer part no. 9956-41-800 (get 1)
Turret90cc
5/8 or crescent wrench for trans fill
Some Anti-Seize on tran fill bolt

Differential:Redline 75w-90 Gear Oil (not NS) GL-5 (1qt)

Differential drain torque: 29-40 ft-lbs
Differential fill torque: 29-40 ft-lbs
Crush washer part no. 9956-41-800 (get 2)

Engine Oil:Crush washer part no. 9956-41-400 (get 1)

Thank you kindly. I have run redline/motul always, but heard good things about the Motorcraft.

Went to a miata show yesterday, and they kept saying motorcraft only good for 6 speed miata manual, and redline for 5 speed:confused:

My MSM runs redline in tranny with no issues. Just want to make sure motorcraft is ok for the 5 speed 01 NB

Jesse1999

29th July 2012, 13:03

Thank you kindly. I have run redline/motul always, but heard good things about the Motorcraft.

Went to a miata show yesterday, and they kept saying motorcraft only good for 6 speed miata manual, and redline for 5 speed:confused:

My MSM runs redline in tranny with no issues. Just want to make sure motorcraft is ok for the 5 speed 01 NB

Motorcraft Full Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid works fine in the 5 speed. I used it for two years in my '99 and it really did help smooth out the shifting. Only drawback is the cost at almost $20 a bottle!

LoanShark

29th July 2012, 13:13

Motorcraft Full Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid works fine in the 5 speed. I used it for two years in my '99 and it really did help smooth out the shifting. Only drawback is the cost at almost $20 a bottle!

Thank you very much Jesse. I will order it up, cost isn't an issue. Have a pleasant rest of the weekend:wave:

Rozalin

29th July 2012, 14:05

Forgive the crappy phone pictures. Did a full clay bar, paint cleaner, polish, and 2 layers of wax.

First car ever where clay bar was almost not needed, the paint was that smooth already. I guess that was the present from the previous owner (original owner, garaged and covered all its life), paint condition.

Looks Great! It's a lot of work but well worth it. :thumbs:

LoanShark

29th July 2012, 14:18

Looks Great! It's a lot of work but well worth it. :thumbs:

Thank you for your help and input! Of course having a rotary Porter Cable would have cut down on the 4 hours of pain staking detail, but what is the fun in that:rofl:

Panchira!

29th July 2012, 15:04

GTScott

29th July 2012, 16:02

Can we see some photos? Wuld love to see how it looks and also some detailed photos of the leather quality and style!

I can get some more if you want details. I was impressed with the leather quality. There was one spot that has a "dimple" but I imagine that will work its way out. Also, some of the threads were left long and had to be slightly trimmed. Other than those points, everything is good. They smell great! They look great!

These are the tan for the 01+ and have perforated inserts.

I am debating swapping in a tan center console. What do you guys think? I think that may make a strange place for the black/tan split.

LoanShark

29th July 2012, 16:08

usshelena725

29th July 2012, 17:22

They look fantastic. Did u do it yourself and if so, how long and difficult was it? Do u have a black top as well?

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2

Areddi

29th July 2012, 18:00

LoanShark

29th July 2012, 18:04

They look fantastic. Did u do it yourself and if so, how long and difficult was it? Do u have a black top as well?

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2

His top looks tan to me

shoult

29th July 2012, 18:21

J3cubrc

29th July 2012, 18:45

J3cubrc

29th July 2012, 18:49

GTScott

29th July 2012, 21:24

His top looks tan to me

The top is actually black. It was down for 3+ years while the previous owner had the hard top on and never removed it. I am thinking that is why the headliner portion, as visible in the picture looks tan. I assumed the top would have been in bad shape and planned to put a tan top in. The top s actually in great shape, minus that discoloration on the headliner.

I think I will stick with the black console. I am thinking about some tan floor mats and perhaps something an on the doors.

Having had an M45 m1, I am thinking this car may see am m62 in the next few weeks.

jwett9

29th July 2012, 21:44

What are your impressions of the dual tip racing beat? Is it the twin tip on one side or one per side?

I have the one per side. So far it's great. I feel like I'm still breaking it in.
Looks really good, doesn't stick out too far. Will post a picture soon. Easy to cut the second hole too. Not too loud, on highway I forget it's not stock until I get on it.

Panchira!

30th July 2012, 00:10

Ok after putting on new rims tires, I finally was able to sit down and get the suspension ready for the alignment. Got front and rear leveled, and took preload out of sway bars. It's set to 12.25" front and 12.75" rear. I was fighting wit it for a bit and realized it was the damn front sway bar preload messing with me lol! Heat can some times mess with your brain! After that was done gave her a well deserved bath! Then took her for a spin wow! We're my old tires craptastic! Waaaaayyy different! These tires are sticky!

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l13/SW203SGTE/6164f5e4.jpg

Now quick question. FM frame rails and seam weld door seams? Or just frame rails? I don't want the butterfly brace it's just more weight then I want to add.

chihuahua

30th July 2012, 00:24

Mazdaspeed_nb8c

30th July 2012, 01:19

Installed Momo Jet 320mm steering wheel

BUT MOMO Hub really sucks!!!

I should of spend the Money and get the DAIKEI BOSS HUB KIT

Right now I have no Horn and signal canceler doesn't work that well!!!!

:(

But what the hack, the steering wheel is awesome!!!

have to save up some Money and upgrade to Daikei soon!!!

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-yZs4iNpumrg/UBSDkUTiNKI/AAAAAAAACGE/EuGkI-JZNME/s640/blogger-image--1979954785.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-mRzU8e-ofEc/UBSDrt2dIVI/AAAAAAAACGk/B77-omulCOg/s640/blogger-image--1441325226.jpg

Mazdaspeed_nb8c

30th July 2012, 01:23

Installed Three Gauges Oil Temp/Press and Water Temp (Auto Meter Ultra Lite II)

Oil gauges hooked up
Water Temp not hooked up - waiting for hose adaptor to arrive

Gauges holder from Thompson DIN gauge panel

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-b2J44flWV-A/UBXPrTIjaVI/AAAAAAAACJU/96jkNqwijZ4/s640/blogger-image-708156503.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-hOZMoC11h9g/UBXPfASjYbI/AAAAAAAACI0/eb_9BDOopNc/s640/blogger-image-386691111.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-qQBZdXZwQBI/UBXPqjxJ1LI/AAAAAAAACJM/ntVlF3LIV-g/s640/blogger-image-1463065319.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UWK5zCXWKXk/UBXenkZLL8I/AAAAAAAACLQ/mZi6yrFFC-8/s640/blogger-image-1951277730.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jHXJJ99q-io/UBXem6H-D5I/AAAAAAAACLI/o4v1wmmMRbg/s640/blogger-image--978082329.jpg

chihuahua

30th July 2012, 02:01

LoanShark

30th July 2012, 02:15

The top is actually black. It was down for 3+ years while the previous owner had the hard top on and never removed it. I am thinking that is why the headliner portion, as visible in the picture looks tan. I assumed the top would have been in bad shape and planned to put a tan top in. The top s actually in great shape, minus that discoloration on the headliner.

I think I will stick with the black console. I am thinking about some tan floor mats and perhaps something an on the doors.

Having had an M45 m1, I am thinking this car may see am m62 in the next few weeks.

Interesting, I run HT on all my Miatas (so essentially top is always down), but I use the boot cover, so not to discolor the inside.

Mazdaspeed_nb8c

30th July 2012, 02:23

That wheel and those gauges look great! Whereabouts in Richmond are you? I'm in Chesterfield.

I am in Richmond, BC, Canada

:D

Not in the USA

:D

chihuahua

30th July 2012, 02:47

I am in Richmond, BC, Canada

:D

Not in the USA

:D

Ah.I guess we're quite a ways away then

CrazyBlue85

30th July 2012, 04:29

I drained the transmission. I then removed the driveshaft, which was less of a pain than I expected and it did not "call forth the drippys," as one of the how-tos I found alluded to. I was rather pleased with that development. I've found no adverse wear on any of the components of the driveshaft; I just hope I torque everything properly when I put it all back together. I then yanked the transmission out with the help of a friend whose arms are twice the size of mine, perhaps a little more. Being slim-of-arm helps everywhere in a Miata except for bench-pressing transmissions. Unfortunately, I had to undo 80% of the work I'd done installing the exhaust as it didn't occur to me at the time that I'd have to remove the blasted thing to change the clutch. Next, I removed the clutch/flywheel assembly and am pleased to report that the rear main seal is not leaky and appears to be in fine condition. Therefore, I shan't mess with it. A few odd-looking wear marks on the flywheel explains the occasional shudder I had when easing into the clutch. The whole kit-n-kaboodle is going to be replaced tomorrow with a FM Stage 1 clutch and 10.x# flywheel.

Unfortunately, while removing my shiny new downpipe, one of the nuts removed one of the studs from the flange of the manifold. It is not stripped, however I am displeased with such a development. Loctite and Vice Grips it is, then, in a rather contorted, awkward space. At this point, I'd rather use a clamp if I couldn't get it back on rather than disassemble an assembly that I had to whack the snot out of the frame to get to fit.

All said, the light I mentioned many pages ago is much brighter. The remainder of the work is as-follows: install boost gauge, finish clutch/seals/transmission install, finish swapping brake rotors & pads (only have the left-front left to swap, though I need to put the retractor springs I went many places to find in on all corners), cut the splash pan/fender liners to-fit, install the washers for the water banjo fittings on the turbo, cover the braided steel oil supply hose so as to not eat the other hoses and wires in the vicinity, find a bushing/plug for the hole in the trans tunnel from the rear O2 sensor removal, reinstall exhaust & sensors, reinstall undercar bracing, mount the wheels with new tires (thanks Tire Rack), fill the fluids, flash Hydra to the newest firmware & maps, prime the turbo and injectors, crank the car and pray it doesn't explode, swap my now very dead top out for the new Robbins top sitting in the garage, resort all my tools, doublecheck everything, pack, and then head to Grand Junction.

I'm going to have a very fun couple of days.

MONK

30th July 2012, 16:14

Ciotti

30th July 2012, 17:31

gottspd

30th July 2012, 21:27

Scuba_Steve

30th July 2012, 22:04

CrazyBlue85

31st July 2012, 01:33

Got home from outprocessing later than I wanted to, but got the clutch assembly done, trans back in and mounted securely, some general cleanup/miscellany, and considered continuing except for wanting to fall asleep on the concrete. That's generally a sign of fatigue and that it's time to call it quits. I hate to admit it, but I may have to wait till Thursday to go up to Grand Junction. However, that would give me time to finish all the small bits, get my new top on (a must) and some shakedown drives if it starts.

Scuba, which of your choices are you bringing?

texasmr2

31st July 2012, 08:43

Installed Three Gauges Oil Temp/Press and Water Temp (Auto Meter Ultra Lite II)

Oil gauges hooked up
Water Temp not hooked up - waiting for hose adaptor to arrive

Gauges holder from Thompson DIN gauge panel

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-b2J44flWV-A/UBXPrTIjaVI/AAAAAAAACJU/96jkNqwijZ4/s640/blogger-image-708156503.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-hOZMoC11h9g/UBXPfASjYbI/AAAAAAAACI0/eb_9BDOopNc/s640/blogger-image-386691111.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-qQBZdXZwQBI/UBXPqjxJ1LI/AAAAAAAACJM/ntVlF3LIV-g/s640/blogger-image-1463065319.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UWK5zCXWKXk/UBXenkZLL8I/AAAAAAAACLQ/mZi6yrFFC-8/s640/blogger-image-1951277730.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jHXJJ99q-io/UBXem6H-D5I/AAAAAAAACLI/o4v1wmmMRbg/s640/blogger-image--978082329.jpg

Very very nice :thumbs: !!!

Soraia

31st July 2012, 10:03

Installed Momo Jet 320mm steering wheel

BUT MOMO Hub really sucks!!!

I should of spend the Money and get the DAIKEI BOSS HUB KIT

Right now I have no Horn and signal canceler doesn't work that well!!!!

:(

But what the hack, the steering wheel is awesome!!!

have to save up some Money and upgrade to Daikei soon!!!

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-yZs4iNpumrg/UBSDkUTiNKI/AAAAAAAACGE/EuGkI-JZNME/s640/blogger-image--1979954785.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-mRzU8e-ofEc/UBSDrt2dIVI/AAAAAAAACGk/B77-omulCOg/s640/blogger-image--1441325226.jpg

Got non-airbag seat belt to protect your face from the steering wheel?

Waiting for Marine Tex to cure on my hardtop fix.

kallsop

1st August 2012, 05:39

pyro4826

1st August 2012, 12:22

usshelena725

1st August 2012, 13:17

Installed new interior driver door handle, as old one was quite scratched from the previous owner. Took 20mins.

Installed hydraulic trunk lift kit. Was expecting an hour job tops. Took 3hours and now my back hurts from being hunched over for so long,

Tikiman12

1st August 2012, 13:20

Got time to work on the car

Fixed the front shock assembly
Resurfaced the steering wheel
Installed stickers and racing #s
Cleaned the car

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h269/tikiman12/ec9d1378.jpg

Racing numbers
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h269/tikiman12/dbeb166d.jpg
With FLASH
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h269/tikiman12/0c5efcaf.jpg

Clean wheels to put up for sale
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h269/tikiman12/4b6c0e3d.jpg

And windshield decal
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h269/tikiman12/29d6b865.jpg

and new wheels/tires arrived. the usual TRM C1M's for autox
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h269/tikiman12/dbe8a67c.jpg

CrazyBlue85

1st August 2012, 15:34

For some reason, the way TR packages their wheels makes me want an ice-cream sandwich, the ones with the M&Ms.

So far today, I've finished cinching down the PPF, exhaust, took an attempt at installing the retractor springs for my front brakes (I'm not terribly confident that they're the correct ones nor even that I installed them correctly, but we'll see. Finding those springs and the clips is apparently beyond the faculties of Clovis.), put oil in the motor, put coolant in the radiator, and decided to take a little break. Now I just have to install the boost gauge, bolt up the undercar bracing, put the wheels back on it, swap top (oh what fun), and test it out. I really can't believe I'm this close.

Mr.Bails

1st August 2012, 22:16

My fuel gauge only works intermittently...so I ordered a new fuel pump assembly off Ebay and finally went to change it today. To my surprise it looks like the fuel pump had been changed before because it looks brand new and 3 screws were missing where you attach the fuel pump assembly to the car.

Turns out whoever changed the pump before attached some of the wires wrong which kept the fuel level arm from moving freely. The wires were going in front of the assembly when they are supposed to go behind so they do not impede the movement of the arm. That's why my gauge kept getting stuck on 1/4 full.

I correctly attached the wires and it works perfectly now.

Also got some new tires today, Toyo R1R. Can't wait to try them out at the next autocross on the 12th!

AFnutz

1st August 2012, 23:08

CrazyBlue85

1st August 2012, 23:17

Update Time folks.

Top swap not started. Boost gauge is semi-installed; I haven't drilled the holes for the plastic pushpins yet, but it works well despite mangling the line a little. I bolted the rear undercar bracing and the shock tower brace up. I managed to misplace some of the flange nuts that hold the forward one on and the ones I bought to replace them were the right size, but wrong pitch and chewed up the threads pretty good. I chucked the brace almost 20 feet in my backyard out of frustration, as little straws had been piling up for hours. Not my finest moment, but it afforded some release. It didn't do any damage to it nor my yard apart from a small gouge, fortunately. I primed the injectors, primed the snail, flashed the Hydra to the newest firmware (as three updates had come out since I've had it), prayed, and started it.

Well, tried to. My battery was weak from not being used in a long time. So, I hooked it up to my truck. It took a good few revolutions for it to fire off, but it did, stumbling a bit until it opened its eyes to view the world anew. I was greeted by a pleasant, though markedly louder, exhaust note. Its idle is still a bit high for my liking, and I also need to calibrate the TPS, but hey, it's alive!

Now to the problems. Coolant! Coolant everywhere! Well, just mostly. Turns out I didn't fully secure the radiator cap. Its fully-seated position is kind of at an angle, versus an aesthetically-pleasing orientation parallel to the radiator body. Fixed that, and didn't have any more dribbles after I restarted the car and ran it some more. I also noticed that the fans did not turn on, so I re-did the electrical connections to them and checked the Hydra (when it decided to talk to my computer anyway. More on that later.). The Hydra's normal fan-on coolant temp is ordinarily 94. The coolant temp showed -17 to -18C. It was still 100F at the time, so that sensor is not talking to the Hydra the right way. That should be fun to troubleshoot. So, I managed to command them to turn on at -20 after verifying that the fans did work by switching the A/C on (set to spin at -20C by default). I was greeted with wooshing noises once the command took, and the gauge then read a little left of center. What with the red-orange of the cluster lights, I shall call it the CCCP: Communist Coolant Calibration Projektor. After arguing with my Hydra's connection to my oversized laptop, I decided to wind it up a bit. I got it up to around 5,000 with misses and bumps while winding around the tach. I held it there for a bit, but it was obvious that she wasn't particularly happy with me doing that, so I let it settle back down to its current idle of 1250-ish RPM.

On the Hydra... Simple, effective interface. Seems like a relatively simple thing to deal with. So why isn't it willing to speak to my computer with the recommended USB adapter for more than 5-10 seconds? I want to watch it autotune itself and generally check on the health-and-status of the machine in-general, as well as verify that I've done everything correctly or correctly enough. Irritation and sadness, friends. I don't seek to blame anyone. I just want to find out what the frell is going on.

I don't think I'll be going to the FM Summer Camp, at least not with the Miata. If I do decide to drive up there, it'll be in my truck with the Miata remaining on her jackstands. If anything, I want to see the premiere of the film they had put together and I'm on vacation, dammit. I want OUT! of New Mexico for a while. OUT! I say.

P.S.: If you all have any experience or advice on the problems above, please let me know here. Thanks much.

Racing_Green

1st August 2012, 23:58

Installed my Cobalt muffler, added more permatext to the header collector flange (small leak) and retorqued my engine mount bolts. Yes the right passenger side was under torqued. It wasn't loose but took about 3 flexes to hit the torque numbers. Room is so tight under the car I think I need a new jack, stands and ramps. Sure the car is tiny and light but I need room to work under there. The cheap Craftsman set and the baby ramps aren't enough. Haven't fired it up yet. Want the permetex on the muffler flange (no donut gasket) to set. Strangely enough, the stack of nonfoulers and O2 sensor seemed tight and leak free. No soot visible. Maybe the nonfouler is whistling? Got to clean the stainless muffler. Even with the wrap on it I managed to goober it up somehow. I think it was sticker goo left from the warehouse. I cleaned it off with goo gone but if left a haze. Gonna polish it up nice before I put the heat to it. Dang that stainless is purdy!
:D

I prefer the Cobalt sound too.

Panchira!

2nd August 2012, 00:01

Dartboy

2nd August 2012, 00:02

Soraia

2nd August 2012, 01:28

LoanShark

2nd August 2012, 09:18

Mr balls,

Where did you order the R1R from? I need to order up a set.

Panchira!

2nd August 2012, 16:58

Mr.Bails

2nd August 2012, 17:45

Mr balls,

Where did you order the R1R from? I need to order up a set.

LOL it's BAILS not balls

I ordered them from tirerack.com. I've bought my tires from them for many years and only have good things to say.

Motocrossx23

2nd August 2012, 17:47

My SS cobalt exhaust came in from Moss Miata, one day shipping and 15%, I'll be a repeat customer for SURE!

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/536702_354206027991882_630197465_n.jpg

white94cam

2nd August 2012, 18:05

aussieguy

2nd August 2012, 20:32

first and not the last time I'll be doing that
MATG XVI was a blast

first time ever drove that far... 600 miles each way
was a comfortable drive (no aches and pains)

learned that my driving style still based on heavy tanks....
need to learn how to really drive a Miata

Impressed with what the car could do and still felt she had more to offer

:thumbs:

smustang1234

2nd August 2012, 20:41

GoldfishRT

2nd August 2012, 22:24

CrazyBlue85

3rd August 2012, 00:29

Today's Experiment:
FAILED

I set off intending to tune the Hydra a bit, swap the top, do a little road testing, and have a sunshine-y happy day tomorrow. It was not to be. In addition to the Hydra continuing to disconnect from my laptop (and I tried a brand new netbook as well to eliminate a computer configuration issue), the idle started to hunt a little and misfires started popping up throughout more of the rev range, instead of simply getting to 5,000 RPM and misfiring like yesterday. So, I've disconnected the Hydra from the car and will bring it to FM to see if they'd be willing to plug it into their test mule and perhaps a computer of their own to see if I got a 1-in-a-million bad Hydra or if I've simply managed to *expletive* something up bad enough to generate misfires. I did swap my plugs out and gapped them to .28 as FM recommends, but that had no effect, positive nor negative. I also tried unplugging the VVT actuator to see if there was a problem there. I really have no ideas at this point apart from maybe it's trying to advance the timing early. Hopefully, the Hydra's kept a good internal datalog for them to view sometime. I'd be willing to forward it to someone here IF I could transfer it from the Hydra, but I cannot.

While I am disappointed, it's quite likely that I've committed an error or thousand. We'll see. However, that does not explain why the Hydra refuses to stay connected to either computer for more than 15 seconds. I even made sure to disable the "selective USB power-down" option in the computer's power options.

Sadness. The trip won't be nearly as fun in my truck, but it's comfortable and rides nice.

LoanShark

3rd August 2012, 00:34

LOL it's BAILS not balls

I ordered them from tirerack.com. I've bought my tires from them for many years and only have good things to say.

Sorry eyesight not very good in old age. I didn't realize TR carried toyos, will check it out. Thanks

amptramp

3rd August 2012, 09:10

Today's Experiment:
FAILED

I did swap my plugs out and gapped them to .28 as FM recommends, but that had no effect, positive nor negative.

If that's not a typo, I think I know where one problem lies. Is 0.028" what you meant? If .28, then yeah, I see why this is misfiring at any speed.

CrazyBlue85

3rd August 2012, 10:54

inheritthefire

3rd August 2012, 16:29

Washed, polished, and waxed my Miata today in preparation for the Clear Lake Auto Social Society Car Show and Summer Dance Cruise.

I did the cruise a few years back when I had a 2000 Firebird, and now the Miata gets her turn to shine. It really is a fun time, and if anyone is in the area, they should definitely check it out. The cruise is this evening, beginning at 6pm, and the show is tomorrow.

http://members.clearlakeiowa.com/events/details/class-car-show-summer-dance-cruise-721214

LoanShark

3rd August 2012, 17:26

Did a quick detail after a lunch meeting. Now it is freaking raining :( Car is in underground garage.

Trying to grab a ride home, so don't get the Miata wet.

Soraia

3rd August 2012, 17:38

Took the vinyl soft top off. Good riddance. It's for sale in the classified section.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/Kunei_LP/Miata/IMG_20120803_121451.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/Kunei_LP/Miata/IMG_20120803_155747.jpg

Cleaned out the clogged rain drains. I found a penny and a press in interior button. WTF!
Before

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/Kunei_LP/Miata/IMG_20120803_121019.jpg

After

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/Kunei_LP/Miata/IMG_20120803_122326.jpg

Letit*now

3rd August 2012, 20:46

Started my light bar project for the night autocross! 22 days to go... I might make it this time.

Pics when they're worth it...

sonny1

4th August 2012, 22:28

LoanShark

4th August 2012, 23:55

Mazdaspeed_nb8c

5th August 2012, 00:40

just got my Cool Breeze Scoop

installed today and went for a drive from VAncouver to Whistler

the Scoop is awesome!!! makes the co*ckpit pretty cool.....

Panchira!

5th August 2012, 01:48

Racing_Green

5th August 2012, 02:13

Motocross, that's sweet, Mine didn't have the cobalt logo. Just as shiny and mellow. Wipe it down before you run it. Dont' want any fingerprints to burn in. Fantastic works well.
:D

Panchira, watch the reflectix on the airbox. Not sure it's rated for contact with the header. Crossover pipe is probably ok.

Panchira!

5th August 2012, 03:56

pbsdaddy

5th August 2012, 18:42

GoldfishRT

5th August 2012, 18:43

combatkarl

5th August 2012, 19:58

Not today - but all this week
-Fuel filter - what a mess - gas dripping everywhere
-Transmission oil change/5 spd turret oil - Mobil 1 Synth
-Differential fluid change - Mobil 1 Synth
-Seat covers from Shearcomfort.com
-Replaced oem carpet w/ 3 piece kit from Mazda3carpet.com - custom molded is a stretch - but finished product looks very nice according to my wife (her car) and smells much better than 13 yr old stinky oem pieces

'99 metallic green

steamboat

5th August 2012, 22:43

NotaBene

6th August 2012, 02:31

Removed and replaced crankshaft seal.

Replaced camshaft seals.

Finished editing latest episode of Timing Belt Change VLog....

Today's episode (shot yesterday, edited today)

Removing the Fan and Radiator.

http://youtu.be/OVaXUGrRv2E

kallsop

6th August 2012, 04:09

I'm headed out to a Bluegrass Festival soon - just seeing if the bass is doable ;)http://www.violinsviolascellosbass.com/miataandbass.jpg

That's, um, er, ah, uh,..... I got nothing. :rofl:

kallsop

6th August 2012, 04:35

Actually yesterday, was looking for a cool shot, and got photo bombed by a minivan at Cape Sebastian on the 101 near Gold Beach OR.
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p309/kallsop2/P1020222.jpg

The shot I was looking for....
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p309/kallsop2/P1020223.jpg

Ciotti

6th August 2012, 09:28

If that's yellow Laminix on your headlights, do you have any more pictures???

EDIT: Found some, got any more???

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showpost.php?p=5910094&postcount=1474

Kylini

6th August 2012, 09:45

Finally changed my 14in "daily" wheels to 7-spokes that I picked up for $10 a pop. 2 pounds lighter per and they look better! No complaints.

http://kylini.com/ul/7spoke.jpg

LoanShark

6th August 2012, 11:08

sclark

6th August 2012, 11:16

Motocrossx23

6th August 2012, 11:17

Motocross, that's sweet, Mine didn't have the cobalt logo. Just as shiny and mellow. Wipe it down before you run it. Dont' want any fingerprints to burn in. Fantastic works well.
:D

I like my Cobalt muffler. Not too loud, just a bit more than stock.

Thanks! Question: did you both buy the midpipe as well or just the axle back? How long did it take to "break in" and get louder? I feel like its just barely louder than stock but I didn't buy the midpipe so I'm not sure...

Jesse1999

6th August 2012, 17:45

I'm headed out to a Bluegrass Festival soon - just seeing if the bass is doable ;)

I wouldn't do that unless it was in a hard shell case! Totally not worth the trouble of trying to claim any damage with insurance, nor is it safe from rain. I really hope you are joking!

FWIW, I used to be a professional violinist. I don't even like putting my violin in the trunk of my miata just in case I get rear ended! Too much time spent searching for a great violin plus the $ invested, at least at the professional level...well, let's just say I could have bought 3+ of my current Miata with how much my violin is worth and it had extremely low mileage in nearly flawless condition! :eek:

LoanShark

6th August 2012, 17:50

FWIW, I used to be a professional violinist. I don't even like putting my violin in the trunk of my miata just in case I get rear ended! Too much time spent searching for a great violin plus the $ invested, at least at the professional level...well, let's just say I could have bought 3+ of my current Miata with how much my violin is worth and it had extremely low mileage in nearly flawless condition! :eek:

Never thought violins were that expensive. Always thought violinists were people who lacked the skill to play piano. Kind of like punters on football teams, who didn't have the skill to be a quarterback, but as a kicker can still claim they were on the "football team." Then again, I think Katy Perry, Jessica Simpson, and Jennifer Lopez are probably the best singers in the last 50 years, so what do I know...

kallsop

6th August 2012, 19:44

If that's yellow Laminix on your headlights, do you have any more pictures???

EDIT: Found some, got any more???

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showpost.php?p=5910094&postcount=1474

Yes it is Laminx Yellow. The set also came with film for the fog lights so when I replace my broken ones I can match them with the headlights. Not to hard to install, but I recommend getting a regular squirt bottle for the water to put them on, the one they send with the kit isn't really big enough.

kallsop

6th August 2012, 19:51

What is "photo bomb?"

It's when someone or something gets in the picture right as you take it, but isn't supposed to be there.

http://www.oddee.com/item_97051.aspx

J3cubrc

6th August 2012, 20:07

[QUOTE=Kylini;5910268]Finally changed my 14in "daily" wheels to 7-spokes that I picked up for $10 a pop. 2 pounds lighter per and they look better! No complaints.[Quote]

Very nice, $10, really? nice. What is the red thing (not the fire hydrant)? an FM sway bar? is that why you compete in "CS"? What other mods?

LoanShark

6th August 2012, 21:13

It's when someone or something gets in the picture right as you take it, but isn't supposed to be there.

http://www.oddee.com/item_97051.aspx

Thank you, learn something new every day. Back in the day it used to be called "ruining a picture"

Kuzmick

6th August 2012, 21:26

EricV

6th August 2012, 21:31

Kylini

6th August 2012, 22:58

Finally changed my 14in "daily" wheels to 7-spokes that I picked up for $10 a pop. 2 pounds lighter per and they look better! No complaints.

Very nice, $10, really? nice. What is the red thing (not the fire hydrant)? an FM sway bar? is that why you compete in "CS"? What other mods?

Yup! I was surprised, especially considering how nice they are. The original owner replaced his wheels when he upgraded tires (Tire Rack for the win) and then sold his Miata not too long later. He is a car guy (Porsche, BMW M3, now a Mini); he took care of them and sold them just for the space.

The red thing is a Racing Beat tubular front sway bar (http://www.racingbeat.com/Miata-1990-2005/Sway-Bars/54103.html). It plus a decent alignment really helps with those pesky transitions and keeps the car from flying around too much in slaloms. If you upgrade your bar, two pieces of advice: 1) buy the 949Racing endlinks (I wish I did), and 2) don't put antiseize on the bolts (I had to torque them down 3x a day until I gave up, cleaned the threads with brake cleaner, and put on some loctite).

CS = C Stock, so I'm only allowed limited modifications, which include the front sway bar. The only other "mod" is my stock 15in wheels have very used freebie Toyo RA-1 tires, which are essentially an R-compound slick when the tread is gone. Otherwise, stock!

Panchira!

7th August 2012, 00:07

Made a heat shield for intake box. Then took her for a drive to test out alignment. Wow I was grinning. There were a few times I went in to hot but the steering and grip never seemed to stop! There is a bit more camber then I would prefer, but where it's at now it fits my driving style. I also wanted to heat cycle the tires too. It was also solid when I hit some dirt patches. And massive camber turn transitions were very stable. Along with mid corner sudden changes to miss rocks. I can say for a fact I have more grip then I have brakes! So I need to upgrade them, they are #3 on the list.

#1 make mid pipe and heat shield
#2 aquire awr motor mounts
#3 upgrade brakes

The rally lights are awesome but I need to adjust them a bit. The car as a whole feels way more stable and solid now. I can not thank west end alignment enough! I had a lot of odd requests and they nailed it!

The damn P0304 Cyl #4 misfire came back and I swapped coils so it's not the coil packs, will try new plugs, then do a compression test/leak down if ok then it's the injector (it only happens when the engine is cold like sat over night, once I start it and drive it or rev it not to high it throws the code unless I warm the car up) I wonder if the lame emission reflash is causing this or if it's an injector? Previously I had a injector o-ring air leak. Plugs look exactl the same for every cylinder.

96Formula6spd

7th August 2012, 01:08

Triple88A

7th August 2012, 05:16

Soraia

7th August 2012, 08:12

jimbop99

7th August 2012, 08:15

usshelena725

7th August 2012, 14:21

Letit*now

7th August 2012, 15:45

Jesse1999

7th August 2012, 16:40

Naturally, this demands a head-to-head test of an incandescent bulb and an LED array! :D

What is it you want to test? Peak heat output or illumination? Considering the OEM, incandescent festoon bulb is only 8w AND sits away from the lens within a metal heat shield there is NO chance of melting the lens.

The 18 LED panel he is talking about is built with 5050 LEDs. They are very bright and run hotter than your average LED. Plus, they sit directly behind the lens, almost touching the back side.

10 minutes is quite a long time. What I wonder is if the lens would have gotten any hotter or had it already peaked? Light output is the reason we chose the 18 LED panel (largest that will fit). It is more than bright enough to illuminate through the tinted OEM lens. Many have used the clear lens but I don't want to see inside to the light nor have an unsightly lens cover that doesn't blend into the windshield pillar.

If you have the tan interior, the 9 LED panel is sufficient and the 12 LED might be better lighting but it will also run hotter. I don't plan on running my 9 LED panel for 10 minutes anytime soon but I'll report back if I ever do!

J3cubrc

7th August 2012, 19:59

EricV

7th August 2012, 20:17

Ordered more parts for the parts room/my closet. Still need to find a top, susp., wheels/tires, and buff her up.

Nevermind these plans, I found out I'm losing tranny fluid out the weep hole. Time for lightweight flywheel/seals/clutch/etc... At least I can still buff the paint this weekend.:ohno:

CrazyBlue85

7th August 2012, 22:49

sonny1, that's really well done. I generally dislike carbon fiber if it's for looks, but... your project has changed my mind. Seriously, nicely done.

[begin_rant]
[Excessive_Profanity_Filter:1]

So, I got back from Summer Camp and visiting a friend in Albuquerque a little while ago. I'm all happy and enthused, if tired from the drive: I have a solid lead on why my car was running like it had a varnished-up carburetor with a bad batch of 10-year-old, water-ridden gasoline. My Hydra was reading my coolant temperature sensor as outputting -18C. This eventually results in whackiness with the fuel table and misfires everywhere. I bought a salvage sensor from FM to help troubleshoot if it was the sensor (oh please oh please dear God let it be the sensor; I can change that easily enough) or if it was wiring somewhere (tears will be shed, rum will be drunk in excess). I get my Hydra talking to my laptop for enough time to tell me what the currently-installed sensor is reading. -18C. OK, that's the control. So, I skin some of the skin off one of the joints in my ring finger and in so doing manage to get the plug for the sensor off. Then I plug my "new" sensor in. I reboot the Hydra program because it REALLY hates my USB connection and then I wait with baited breath for the result.

-18C. Expletives! Expletives everywhere! In multiple languages! Now I get to find out where the break or screwup is. Part of me doubts it's a grounding issue as the ground for that little section of wire (at the back of the head) is A-OK. Of course, I'll clean the bejeezus out of it and reinstall it, but still. All the connectors along that bundle are perfectly well seated, no corrosion. There's no apparent external damage nor evidence of heat damage or other trauma. Now to find a wiring diagram that's decipherable enough for an electrical novice.

Brilliant.

[Excessive_Profanity_Filter:0]
[end_rant]

sonny1

7th August 2012, 23:35

[QUOTE=CrazyBlue85;5913260]sonny1, that's really well done. I generally dislike carbon fiber if it's for looks, but... your project has changed my mind. Seriously, nicely done.

Tx..it was a labor of love. If anyone is interested in doing it, buy 3M's 1080 vinyl. They make 2 types. The DiNoc is for architectural and I hear it's thicker and harder to mold, mostly for flat surfaces.

When the dash get's dirty and scratched up, I plan to re-wrap with Anthracite CF, it's more silver. Thinking about getting the Avery Conform Chrome and go to town with the vent covers, sill plates and other stuff. The real chrome parts are not worth the price and besides the vinyl can be removed and OE parts restored.

BTW how do you like the FM shocks? Thinking about it to lower the car a bit.

CrazyBlue85

7th August 2012, 23:48

LoanShark

7th August 2012, 23:51

CRAZYBLUE

Any pics of the Crystal Blue with the FMII susp installed?? No one mods CB, so I am dying to see before ordering!

Leolo007

8th August 2012, 00:18

Today I drove my 10AE Miata for the 4th time since the day I bought it...

which was 4 days ago!!!

My first Miata :)

Already have some projects which I can't wait to post about on here.

Tops Drop

8th August 2012, 01:16

Changed the oil, transmission, and differential fluid.

Also got my "new" wheels put on!

CrazyBlue85

8th August 2012, 03:06

LoanShark

8th August 2012, 12:02

LS, I'll take some tomorrow. If I can get this damn sensor issue tracked down, I should be able to put the wheels back on it and run it around some. There's also a gentleman who owns a CB NB with a CB hardtop (!!!). He runs some good times; was second-in-class at this year's FM summer camp. I'll see if I can find any images of his ride from last year's photo disc.

Thank you kindly!!!!

Letit*now

8th August 2012, 12:28

What is it you want to test?
The reception of some silliness. ;) Truth told, heat would be critical. If the LED array offers a lot of heat at 15 minutes' burn, what does the stock bulb do?

I can't imagine that even 10+ minutes is common use, but it's good to know that extenuating circ*mstances can potentially have poor results. I've got the 18 LED array in my Miata with the smoked lens, and I dig it. :)

King Nardi

8th August 2012, 14:40

Panchira!

8th August 2012, 21:45

LoanShark

8th August 2012, 21:47

KING NARDI

Where is the AFTER photo?

deejaydelsol

9th August 2012, 00:37

96Formula6spd

9th August 2012, 09:43

King Nardi

9th August 2012, 12:58

KING NARDI

Where is the AFTER photo?

With the antenna fixed, it's retracted! I guess before photos do require the after photo. Will try next time. Going to do my rear brake pads if I get a cooler day. Also replacing windshield wipers. Sounds like most use 18" blades.

LoanShark

9th August 2012, 13:00

With the antenna fixed, it's retracted! I guess before photos do require the after photo. Will try next time. Going to do my rear brake pads if I get a cooler day. Also replacing windshield wipers. Sounds like most use 18" blades.

I only asked for after photos since you posted the before photo ;)

I need to do the rear pads too. Let me know what you end up buying (I was thinking OEM), and how hard it is.

On the sponsor sites there seems to be pads sold with shims or etc parts and some not.

WHat happened to the old days, when you could slide caliper up, insert pad, and be done?

CrazyBlue85

9th August 2012, 13:09

LoanShark

9th August 2012, 13:44

socal pat

9th August 2012, 21:43

LoanShark

9th August 2012, 21:49

I bought her a hard top. Once I sand and paint it I'll post a pic.

Saw you finally picked up the one from Victim. Poor guy was getting lowballed:D Congrats

King Nardi

9th August 2012, 22:34

LS I'm using Monroe DX635 Dynamic Premium Brake Pad for front and DX636 for back from Amazon for my 2002 base. Came with shims, clips, grease packet and pads. I hope to upgrade to performance brakes with slotted rotors someday, but for now the car needed pads or the rotors would start to be damaged. The fronts were very low. Stops better now but I need to do the rear brakes still. Took about an hour and a half in the heat, but I haven't done brakes for a while and didn't want to do something wrong. I'm sure there are much quicker times than mine, but they are your brakes...

http://www.amazon.com/Monroe-DX635-Dynamic-Premium-Brake/dp/B0016J8JNO/

I only asked for after photos since you posted the before photo ;)

I need to do the rear pads too. Let me know what you end up buying (I was thinking OEM), and how hard it is.

On the sponsor sites there seems to be pads sold with shims or etc parts and some not.

WHat happened to the old days, when you could slide caliper up, insert pad, and be done?

LoanShark

9th August 2012, 22:40

Thanks kindly King Nardi.:)

Weird says Amazon prime next to it (i have prime), but if I go to checkout telling me $9 for shipping/handling :rolleyes:

King Nardi

9th August 2012, 22:50

No problem, maybe customer service will refund your prime shipping...

Thanks kindly King Nardi.:)

Weird says Amazon prime next to it (i have prime), but if I go to checkout telling me $9 for shipping/handling :rolleyes:

kallsop

10th August 2012, 04:11

Thanks! Question: did you both buy the midpipe as well or just the axle back? How long did it take to "break in" and get louder? I feel like its just barely louder than stock but I didn't buy the midpipe so I'm not sure...

So how is the sound now that it's been on? I ask because I want to get a better sound, but I take long road trips and I don't want it too loud. In the mid 90's the tips on my 90 Civic Si were rusting out, and I replace the muffler with a pipe and a set of Ansa dual fiberglass tips and kept the resanator/mid pipe and the sound was great, but after 300 miles kind of hurt the ears. Fortunate thing was it never sounded like the "fartcan" exhaust that became popular. In a funny way, I would like to find what I had on a TR7 which was (and I'm showing my age) a set of side by side Cherry Bomb mufflers that gave the car a great sound.

J3cubrc

10th August 2012, 05:30

I hope to upgrade to performance brakes with slotted rotors someday, but for now the car needed pads or the rotors would start to be damaged. Stops better now but I need to do the rear brakes still. (abridged by J3)

Slotted rotors probably are real cool, would like a set myself. If you are looking to improve the feel and performance however, consider flushing the fluid. It can be done at home easily with a cheap ($25?) vacuum tool from Harbor Freight. Properly adjusting the parking brake at the rear calipers will improve the pedal feel as well. I had to do both of my cars to go racing, but am glad now that I did. It was probably about an hour per car, not sure, but I agree that time is not the priority. -Also, stick to a couple very short hops after setting the parking brake; it is easy to set them a little too tight (I didn't :rolleyes: not me.)

sonny1

10th August 2012, 07:19

Slotted rotors probably are real cool, would like a set myself. If you are looking to improve the feel and performance however, consider flushing the fluid. It can be done at home easily with a cheap ($25?) vacuum tool from Harbor Freight. Properly adjusting the parking brake at the rear calipers will improve the pedal feel as well. I had to do both of my cars to go racing, but am glad now that I did. It was probably about an hour per car, not sure, but I agree that time is not the priority. -Also, stick to a couple very short hops after setting the parking brake; it is easy to set them a little too tight (I didn't :rolleyes: not me.)

I installed DBA x-drill and slotted with Hawk HPS earlier this year and it's been great. smooth even braking and no fade. I posted pix on post 7550.

96Formula6spd

10th August 2012, 13:09

Last session from Wednesday. 13 min mark has a nice noise go by.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDzb7XD_eeQ&list=UUfj8I4ik2WaGMNtTBGt8rkQ&index=1&feature=plcp

Soraia

10th August 2012, 13:25

King Nardi

10th August 2012, 15:25

Nice rotors! and thanks for the brake fluid flushing info J3cubrc!

I installed DBA x-drill and slotted with Hawk HPS earlier this year and it's been great. smooth even braking and no fade. I posted pix on post 7550.

Kylini

10th August 2012, 15:53

I removed the decals from my '99; it's nice and clean again. Next year for autocrossing, I'm going to get better numbers instead of vinyl.

More excitingly, my dad joined the club! He purchased a 2003 Garnet Red LS today from Lou Fusz which was previously owned by MiataPunkass (I identified the car based on his posts and the leftover "Team Punkass Racing" decal on the strut tower bar). Only 46,000 miles, brand new Falken tires (good enough for dad), both sways already replaced, and an Enthuza XR exhaust that he HATES (but will give me for free!), purchased for $10,000, which is spot on for pricing IMO (especially since I found the history on the car).

bigdave

10th August 2012, 15:56

LoanShark

10th August 2012, 17:27

Kylini

10th August 2012, 20:15

Lou Fusz...when I was in St Louis--they had all of the dealer. COngrats to your dad. Great color. But 10k for a 03? WOW. That is MSM/NC money.

True, but 10k is also cheaper than NADA at that mileage, it was stupid clean without rust, which is hard to find up north, and the cheapest NCs start at $15,000 (which my dad, notably, did not like). He also didn't want to deal with a private sale, so it's good all around. He also really hated the 6-speeds.

The car: http://www.fusz.com/preowned-inventory/2003_Mazda_MX-5_Miata_KIRKWOOD_JM1NB353230307419.aspx

EDIT: Because I hate multiposting, here's what my car looked like today over coffee and comps preparation.

http://kylini.com/ul/bluebirdp.jpg (http://kylini.com/ul/bluebird.jpg)

J3cubrc

10th August 2012, 21:22

EDIT: Because I hate multiposting, here's what my car looked like today over coffee and comps preparation.

-Sweet

LoanShark

10th August 2012, 22:31

chihuahua

10th August 2012, 22:50

CrazyBlue85

11th August 2012, 00:45

good2go

11th August 2012, 11:17

... I've got to split open a REALLY LONG wiring bundle ... all to find one little break or questionable connection that could be on any of three wires.

I think I'd have just pulled 3 new wires instead. :dunno:

CrazyBlue85

11th August 2012, 19:16

good2go, the thought has crossed my mind to be honest. However, I'm not sure exactly where the wires terminate in the wiring bundle. I've also seen a wiring diagram that indicates one of the wires is spliced into what I believe is a 5V source. That diagram, for a 2002 (link below) only shows two wires for the CTS. However, there is quite obviously three wires. One of them I believe routes to the "idiot light" gauge, one is for the "hot" side of the sensor, and the other is for completing the (I assume) attenuated circuit. If I'm not mistaken, the temperature reading the ECU takes from the sensor is derived off voltage. It starts at, say, -20C for a full 5V reading, and then reads the temperature as increasing while the voltage on the circuit decreases.

If I'm totally out to lunch or if anyone has any other information, please post!

P.S.: I've mucked about with the maps and options in my Hydra software using a copy of the map that's currently in the ECU. I think I can "trick" it into believing the coolant temp is, say, 98C by going to Tuning Maps -> Sensor Calibration -> Coolant Temperature Sensor and putting 98 in for all the values. Looking through the other maps, a coolant temp in that neighborhood adds no timing nor fuel, and also doesn't limit RPM to about 5,100 (which there is an RPM limiter function that goes off coolant temp so you don't, say, wind it to redline when the coolant, block, oil, everything is -20C). I'll report back if it takes and if it's drivable. I figure it's a fairly safe "trick" to use since cars ran just fine before such controls.

CrazyBlue85

11th August 2012, 20:22

My "trick" worked. For the things that coolant temp affects, that is. Otherwise, it would sputter and almost start, but wouldn't. I let it sit a bit, it'd fire up into a choppy idle then die. I got it to do that once. Otherwise, I could crank and crank and it would do naught but sputter at me. I guess IF! the PCMCIA card works with my old laptop and the Hydra when it arrives on Monday, I'll pull some logs while starting to send to FM.

I'm about at the end of my rope.

bludblu

12th August 2012, 10:18

CrazyBlue85

12th August 2012, 13:55

Update:
I dug through my e-mails from FM and found one about the dwell curves. Thinking about it, my coils have 96k miles on them, almost all in nasty-hot, ungaraged environments where your coolant temperature starts at 40C, sometimes higher, so I figured they might be getting cranky when they get hot, even at idle. I found the e-mail, which recommends taking the dwell base setting down one point across the board from 5.88ms at 10V on down to 2.0ms at 15V, versus 6.88 and 3.0 respectively. Also, it recommends adjusting the engine speed dwell trim down to -2.0ms at 0RPM and working in a linear fashion up from that to +3.0 at 12,750RPM. Sure, a Miata won't wind that high, but having the map built out that far helps to see the overall shape of the curve (in this case, a line segment). Now, the big question: "Will it work?"

It did. And, curiously enough, after I got the map to take and started the car, the Hydra started talking to my computer better. I have no idea if the two phenomenons are related, but I'll take it. The car ran pretty smoothly, and after letting it warm up for a bit, I got my idle valve % down to just under 31%. I then revved it up a little, then a bit more, let it rest a few at idle, then smoothly wound it out to 7k and eased it back down. I seem to have a slight skip or miss on decel, but hey, this is the most progress I've made since I've had it mechanically together. I plan to take it for a test drive, and if my luck holds out with the Hydra talking to my laptop, I'll pull some logs.

LoanShark

12th August 2012, 16:33

CrazyBlue85

12th August 2012, 16:44

Soraia

12th August 2012, 18:45

LoanShark

12th August 2012, 20:26

LS, the suspension's actually about two years old now. ;) It's the turbo and associated stuff that's new. When I do take pictures, pardon the surface rust on the rotors. The one time it decides to rain here in Clovidishu is when I have fresh rotors. :rofl:

Just get me some damn pictures:D

sonny1

12th August 2012, 20:40

First time using clay. Very little effort but whole thing took about 3.5 hrs. First washed it, then towel dried, then clay'd, then waxed. I am tired but car looks awesome.

Used:

* Mother's California Gold clay kit (dropped one block of clay in first 5 min, &^%$#%)
* Meguiar's Carnuba yellow paste wax

Clay is amazing and the surface is like glass..smooooth !

Taking a break and playing xbox Darksiders II, hope I can hold the controller, hands are sore.

See yah !!

Ciotti

12th August 2012, 21:46

asf6

12th August 2012, 22:06

sonny1

12th August 2012, 22:29

Hit 100,000 miles on my 2000 LS last night.

I will hit 100K in 2026. Averaging 5K/year and she's only got 28K on the speedometer. Am I nuts for putting so little on. I crinch when the dial spins.

People think I am nuts for not driving it more, I think so too !!

LoanShark

12th August 2012, 22:42

I lived in Boston last 4 years. 2 years I drove my MKII MR2 Turbo, and I put 28,000 miles on it, driving it all year.

Then I purchased a new NC2 PRHT Miata, which I put about 20,000 miles in 14 months living in Boston.

There are Miata members here in So Cal, driving 500 miles a year, and there is a NSX owner who lives in Novia Scotia that has daily driven his car since 1992, and has 300,000 mile on their NSX.

Soraia

12th August 2012, 23:05

I will hit 100K in 2026. Averaging 5K/year and she's only got 28K on the speedometer. Am I nuts for putting so little on. I crinch when the dial spins.

People think I am nuts for not driving it more, I think so too !!
I can't stop driving my car. Only the gas prices keep me in check. :p

But now the car is down, I feel so blue. :sad:

CrazyBlue85

13th August 2012, 00:39

LoanShark

13th August 2012, 02:11

Crazy

Got your pics. Thanks so much

idriveamiata

13th August 2012, 13:43

It was broken and horribly scratched.

http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/ae152/ADCIT/2012-08-11_17-07-16_780.jpg

The glue was pita to remove. Thankfully I had Goof Gff, 'cause Goo Gone doesnt work.

LoanShark

13th August 2012, 14:22

^^^^^^^

Looks fantastic! FREE that miata from the tupperware!

MONK

13th August 2012, 16:18

EricV

13th August 2012, 22:22

Applied 3 coats of adhesion promoter, and one coat of 18J to my RSpeed 99-00 lip that came in today. Gotta do at least 1 more coat tomorrow, maybe 2 if time allows. Then a bunch of clear coats.

Also put some new fluid in my shifter turret and replaced the little white pivot cap thingy, huge difference. Just waiting for my Anvil 2 to ship :jump:

96Formula6spd

14th August 2012, 02:07

CrazyBlue85

14th August 2012, 02:58

Well, my luck with the Hydra and my netbook did not hold out, so no datalogs for me. I was able to drive around for about a half hour, maybe a little more, before I started developing misfires. I really do think it's the coil packs, but folks are still telling me to run logs. Also, I've got to do some reading; I think there was a fix for the idle droop I get when I let out on the clutch to, say, stop at a light. It'll go down to about 550 RPM or so, stumble a bit, then come smoothly back up to normal idle speed. I also have a couple small oil seeps from two of the fittings that go to my oil cooler, so I'll cinch them up in the morning. I also need to reattach my swaybars. Minor oops, but the car drove around town just fine without them connected up.

Good God this thing is going to be fast when I get it sorted. I got into a little boost a couple of times and it was... rather entertaining. I kind-of wish the sound of the turbo and BOV (it vents to intake) was a bit more quiet, but hey, it's still nifty.

LoanShark

14th August 2012, 09:32

Crazyblue,

Just send the car to FM and have them do the v8 conversion.

bigdave

14th August 2012, 09:33

Crazyblue,

Just send the car to FM and have them do the v8 conversion.

cool! if I had the money, that's the mod I'd do to mine too.

Ciotti

14th August 2012, 10:15

I feel you man, I went out at 1:00, washed, dried, started running the Porter Cable random orbital with a heavy cut pad and Poor Boys 2.5 medium polish, then a soft pad with Clearkote glaze, then a finishing pad with Clearkote carnuba. SO TIRED right now.

Here's the after shot if anyone's interested :)

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/s720x720/383965_10152019911210494_1183317557_n.jpg

CrazyBlue85

14th August 2012, 12:37

Ciotti, that is slick. It's hard for a Miata to look mean, but yours pulls it off.

LS, I should've driven it up and had them do the turbo install themselves. I bit off a decent bit more than I could chew because of my skill and experience level (what little of it I have), but hey, I'm getting there. Not the prettiest, smoothest, cleanest, nor easiest install, but dammit it's mine. :)

Rjackel

14th August 2012, 13:20

Soraia

14th August 2012, 13:26

Installed the new robbins top. Laughed as I ripped the glass out of the old top. Looks good. Should help the resale value if I sell it in the next few months.
http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x231/supra681/Miata/DSC_0031.jpg

Before you sell the car, sell me the mud flaps and make some money. I have the same 22A midnight blue color.

96Formula6spd

14th August 2012, 15:40

Before you sell the car, sell me the mud flaps and make some money. I have the same 22A midnight blue color.

I would but the fronts are tore up. They are not event blue anymore in spots. Most of the paint has flaked off up front. I have been looking for some new fronts. But since I autox and they get torn up anyways I just don't care about them anymore.

Soraia

14th August 2012, 16:22

izzyroadster

14th August 2012, 17:01

Replaced my Main Relay after not starting and almost placed me late for work. Thanks to miata.net members contribution. It save me time and possibly money just finding out what's wrong. Now it starts like new again with no hesitatation. Amazing what a tiny part can do.

http://i696.photobucket.com/albums/vv329/izzyshots/01%20Miata/E0065EBE-5B3A-4DC9-AF0D-CA69100BADF7-500-0000008612B77367.jpg

MX5forme

14th August 2012, 17:19

LoanShark

14th August 2012, 17:53

Had my 8 year old OEM windshield replaced. So nice to drive now without all the nicks and chips....of course, having the 18" long crack gone is nice too! The glass company was able to source an aftermarket windshield without the tint strip. Thank goodness for glass insurance!
Even without glass insurance, on most normal cars windshield is pretty cheap. I have a 2012 people mover, huge crack, and I have glass insurance. Had it replaced recently, and saw the bill, it was only about 400$.

Whereas if you have a specialty car, where no aftermarket exists, windshields can be 1500-2500$ and glass insurance won't help, because the manufacturer refuses to ship you one, due to them putting the windshields in cars on the assembly line, and make you wait ..could take 12-14 months :(

CrazyBlue85

14th August 2012, 20:01

I've ordered new coil packs. I'll be picking them up in Amarillo tomorrow. Even if my packs aren't causing my misfires when hot, it's only a matter of time before they go considering their age. The road trip there is also the perfect excuse to visit the one-day-a-week BBQ place in Farwell, which is supposed to be awesome according to my neighbors and everyone else I've asked.

As an aside, how much would a top R^2 usually run? The top I bought already has the rain rails installed, so that should save time/effort for the installers.

nwick

14th August 2012, 21:01

Took a new picture at Lake Michigan western shore.

147624

LoanShark

14th August 2012, 21:08

BGrigg

14th August 2012, 21:23

CrazyBlue85

15th August 2012, 00:42

96Formula6spd

15th August 2012, 02:57

I want mainly the rears.
Got some hightemp threadlock sealant for my flywheel bolts. I'm reusing them and hopefully they won't break.

Why not just get a clean set and them painted? Ill think about it but I have not even installed the baby teeth back ont the car and I have had them for months.

yl1

15th August 2012, 09:41

CrazyBlue85

15th August 2012, 13:30

vl1, welcome and congrats. Hopefully you can get the hood repaired; the stock ones are aluminum and oftentimes body shops will try to cheap out and put a heavy steel one on instead. The bumper cover looks like it could be salvageable; all depends on the shape of the attachment points. Of course, you probably know a heluva lot more about that than I! Nevertheless, they are a blast. If the horsepower bug ever bites you, you've got options. Turbos, supers, V6s, V8s, heck someone even put a small Jag V12 in a Miata (you can find that on Youtube), IRTBs...

Again, :welcome:

BGrigg

15th August 2012, 14:05

I finally got around to fixing my lazy top latch that prevented me from deleting the sun visors, so I got to do TWO things for my NB, today!

Rather than drilling and tapping the "button" I did the same to the "handle". Same satisfying click upon closing, and I didn't need to remove the button from the assembly, just position the handle in the open position and drill and tap.

Then I used the "twist and pull" method on the visors, leaving the OEM plugs in place with the very minor hole left behind. I think I shall be able to ignore those without expending time or money on blanking plates.

ArtinNC

15th August 2012, 15:48

I just put a new water pump and new timing belt and pullys , cam and crank seals on my 2004 with 109022 miles . The timing belt looked good I think it would have gone another 60K . I just took it a drive down the road and it runs great . Very happy with my first time changeing them.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v643/ArtinNC/100_1101.jpg

Gun Bunny

15th August 2012, 16:40

Replaced this:147669

With this:147670

That's rustoleum bare metal primer as a rust preventative.

I also fixed a small (1mm) hole in the top, iron on denim patch looks pretty unobtrusive 147671

lukejazz

15th August 2012, 16:42

Did the cup holder mod I found on the forum 2 weekends ago. Worked out fantastically well and was really easy.

This past weekend I used a Meguire's Paint restoration kit to get out a few scratches from the previous owner (have had it about 3 weeks now). Worked pretty well but I imagine it would have been better with some kind of buffer (did it all by hand).

LoanShark

15th August 2012, 18:57

Soraia

15th August 2012, 22:37

Did this to my car, no more clutch shudder.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/Kunei_LP/Miata/IMG_20120815_130452.jpg

And put this in as a test.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_synchromesh-manual-transmission-fluid-(32-oz-)-pennzoil_7070062-p

I wish I have a garage with lift and tools to rebuild Miatas.

95 M

15th August 2012, 22:49

Soraia

15th August 2012, 22:58

95 M

15th August 2012, 23:01

amptramp

16th August 2012, 07:38

Whats the cupholder mod?

I believe he is referring to this:

http://www.miata.net/garage/cupholderfix/index.html

It was the first mod I did on my car and it worked perfectly. I used very stiff 10-gauge solid copper wire to hold it together.

steamboat

16th August 2012, 12:32

LoanShark

16th August 2012, 14:33

I believe he is referring to this:

http://www.miata.net/garage/cupholderfix/index.html

It was the first mod I did on my car and it worked perfectly. I used very stiff 10-gauge solid copper wire to hold it together.

Thank you.

MONK

16th August 2012, 16:29

Gun Bunny

16th August 2012, 17:11

Letit*now

16th August 2012, 19:01

Ten days 'til the night autocross. This is totally unnecessary but fun!
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w187/Letit*now_photos/00Miata/2012/08/16/IMG_20120816_180632.jpg

Did I forget to say temporary? That, too.

Soraia

16th August 2012, 21:27

Fixed the leaking header, the tires facing the wrong direction, the missing nut on the exhaust, replace the worn front brakes, checked the front wheel hubs for play and noise, fixed the steering wheel that was off from previous alignment.

Now the car needs a good wash.

torranosaurus

17th August 2012, 10:17

Hello,
My 94 has had the airbags removed and I need some non airbag seat belts. I tried removing the excess stitched up stuff on the stock ones, but they are too long, don't tighten well, so I am trying to find some that came from somewhere where there are no airbags.
Anyone?

Got non-airbag seat belt to protect your face from the steering wheel?

Waiting for Marine Tex to cure on my hardtop fix.

UTMorpheus

17th August 2012, 12:49

Ten days 'til the night autocross. This is totally unnecessary but fun!
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w187/Letit*now_photos/00Miata/2012/08/16/IMG_20120816_180632.jpg

Did I forget to say temporary? That, too.

How did you get a 9-character custom plate? NYS only allows 8 characters on their webpage.

NewtoCarsGuy

17th August 2012, 12:52

Soraia

17th August 2012, 13:08

How did you get a 9-character custom plate? NYS only allows 8 characters on their webpage.

Maybe he paid extra at the desk.

LoanShark

17th August 2012, 14:15

How did you get a 9-character custom plate? NYS only allows 8 characters on their webpage.

Its a faux plate
http://www.cnysubies.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=5305&start=30

Real plate attached....

Letit*now

17th August 2012, 14:34

brandonmpace

17th August 2012, 16:33

izzyroadster

17th August 2012, 17:30

FlyinMiata9

17th August 2012, 18:15

CrazyBlue85

17th August 2012, 21:50

I received my second laptop serial-port add-on card. I forgot to verify that it was indeed a PCMCIA slot in my old lappy when it is, in fact, an ExpressCard54 slot (think PCI-Express for laptops, semi-rare, now totally unnecessary). Of course, this would be on a Friday afternoon so FM wouldn't have time to look at the map and log I sent them. However, the mere fact that I CAN talk to the Hydra and CAN pull a datalog and CAN have a consistent connection to it is far, far better than I've had for the past three weeks. I'll take it.

I was disappointed that swapping my coilpacks in addition to the Magnecor wires and Denso plugs did not solve my misfire problem. Yesterday, I wanted to drive it a short ways (less than five miles) to dinner and got all of forty feet before lolmisfires. Same thing today, but the difference is that I have a log. I'll be making a post in the ECU section and posting both my map and the little 107-second log I made if anyone's interested in taking a look.

I love driving this thing so much, but it being an ugly driveway ornament is KILLING. ME. It also has me rather worried because I'm moving in a week's time. I need the car mobile, and fast.

Panchira!

17th August 2012, 23:29

Ordered some awr motor mounts, and a new universal cat for my custom mid pipe. Got to move it over a bit to get it away from the trans tunnel (modded for seat)

@ LoanShark - good looking lights there! We have same idea!

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l13/SW203SGTE/a6106c1c.jpg

LoanShark

18th August 2012, 03:05

^^^^^^^^^

FANTASTIC

Letit*now

18th August 2012, 08:32

Panchira!

18th August 2012, 10:38

lhhernandez

18th August 2012, 16:55

Changed out the Plugs and wires. Put in new NGK Iridium plugs and new NGK blue wires. She is running so well. Semper Fi

147852

socal pat

18th August 2012, 17:19

Panchira!

18th August 2012, 18:00

Finished my long awaited NA oil press gauge mod fitting a na oil press gauge into a nb cluster. Much easier then it looks. Went to junkyard and scored on a pressure sender, oil press gauge, and a Kia coolant neck for a reroute (I'll be replacing headgasket when I do it) for under 20 bucks. Also cleaned and installed new o-rings, insulators on the 99 fuel injectors. With the awr motor mounta coming and a new cat I've got lots of things to do! I'm excited! Pics oh and also did the linear coolant temp gauge mod as well!

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l13/SW203SGTE/8E9911F6-A6FF-480B-91A8-F6A72BC673EB-3575-00000633947814F5.jpg
When I swap it over I'll use my speedo, rpm, and fuel gauges. I have reverse glo faces and war to keep them.

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l13/SW203SGTE/29A6DFBA-3A3F-413D-8C7B-64E3EC9B7FE7-3575-000006339ACF317C.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l13/SW203SGTE/8FDA083A-F18A-4BDC-AF46-F6FDDD04CFBC-3575-00000634D5674D4C.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l13/SW203SGTE/BF151C1D-9D92-4E61-9465-703FD21C4AC6-3575-00000634DF00DF72.jpg

Jesse1999

18th August 2012, 18:10

http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/ae152/ADCIT/2012-08-11_17-07-16_780.jpg

This may be off topic but the only thing blue that pops out in that picture is the USPS tub that isn't being used to transport USPS mail. "Property of USPS" :D I hope that tub is for your home business for an upcoming shipment of parcels.

...people wonder why USPS has lost so much $$$. I see USPS MTE (mail trasport equipment) everyday in garages and businesses being used for purposes other than transporting USPS mail. :ohno: $5 x hundreds of thousands of garages and businesses = $$$$$$$$$

RicksMazda

18th August 2012, 18:52

Changed the oil and the tranny fluid. Was surprised how much easier it is to shift. Old tranny fluid had 116k miles from previous owner.

I love driving this car!!!!

GoldfishRT

18th August 2012, 20:19

Signed it up for a track day and took it out for some fun in the sun! :D

http://img802.imageshack.us/img802/6585/wp000053.jpg

(and no, I like the tupperware, and it's not coming off)

Edit: 10 thousandth post in this thread!

LoanShark

18th August 2012, 21:39

Signed it up for a track day and took it out for some fun in the sun! :D

[/img]

(and no, I like the tupperware, and it's not coming off)

Edit: 10 thousandth post in this thread!

You have a nice car. Your Tupperware isn't offensive like the ones on the 01-05 non msm cars. Now those are barf worthy.